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This is a photo of the fuse box under the hood, near the battery. The red squared in area is what is described as the ELD, or electric Load Detector, for our car. The ELD is essentially a present transformer that monitors the amount of existing draw the vehicle is pulling native the battery. This amount different from time to time depending on what you have actually turned top top (various electrical devices). The ELD will output .1 - 4.8 volts to the ECU. This reference voltage is what speak the ECU to rise or diminish the field strength in the alternator, which subsequently bumps up the output of the alternator. I have recently performed a check on my charging system, due to the fact that I to be / to be having troubles with my amps cutting out. I have traced it to the device voltage no being high enough - i m sorry is causing the battery to it is in strained. Basically my battery is shot. Ago to the subject at your disposal though. The ELD. Since all aftermarket electric feeds space pretty much tapped off of the optimistic terminal the the battery, the existing path is not flowing v the ELD. What go this do? all of the amplifiers, LCD monitors, and also pretty much anything else that isn"t fed through the factory wiring the the automobile draw a many current.Since the ELD isn"t detecting any extr current attract from the battery, that is walking to store the alternator"s output at minimum (12.3 volts) - just sufficient to save the battery charged, plus sufficient to run the equipment of the car. Esstentially this poses two problems / issues. 1. You space not obtaining the many bang for your buck as soon as you operation your stereotype equipment, due to the fact that the system voltage is no at 14.4, however usually lower unless various other accessories that the auto are active. 2. This is walking to put a lot of strain top top the battery and possibly the charging system. Over there is one feasible remedy to this that I have the right to think of in ~ the moment (besides transforming on miscellaneous in the auto to bump the system voltage up), and that is come hardwire a 0-5 volt signal right into the ECU through a rheostat in line, to be able to manually change the output of the alternator. Why not simply run the 5 volts straight to the ECU? Honda draft this mechanism the way they did because that a pair of reasons. The an initial is to conserve gas. Once the alternator isn"t placing out its maximum power, there is less rotational resistance as result of the electrical nature of the magnetic areas - this causes the engine to work less, for this reason saving gas. The 2nd reason in my opinion, would be to conserve wear and also tear top top the alternator. If you to be to drive about with the alternator calculation maxed out 24/7, her alternator isn"t going come be around for as well long..... If you decision to try this - i am in no way held responsible because that what happens if you damage your auto or yourself! take this post as information only - I may attempt the over modification myself, but I don"t plan on doing that anytime shortly (due come the truth that I require my automobile all the time at the moment).